Bruce Smalling
Kaua‘i Island Tour – Central Shore
Lihue, the principal commercial and governmental pivot of Kauai, establishes itself not merely as a hub of activity, but also as a nexus where modernity and tradition subtly converge against a backdrop of natural wonder and cultural landmarks. The area, which incorporates the island’s main airport, is also a dwelling for varied amenities and institutions, including a community college, hospital, as well as an array of shops and dining venues, thereby bestowing upon it a vibrant characteristic.
In the midst of Lihue’s bustling environs stands the historic County Building, acting as the primary locus for governmental and administrative operations on the island. Sited within a context where the Haupu mountain range delineates the topographical panorama, the town simultaneously manages to tether itself to its marine connection through Nawiliwili Harbor – a crucial port that not only welcomes international and inter-island cruise ships but also facilitates assorted commercial activities. Adjacent to the harbor, Kalapaki Beach offers a serene juxtaposition with its placid golden sands, inviting a multitude of leisurely activities, and providing an unobstructed vantage point to observe the kinetic movement of ships.
Adding another layer to the landscape, the Ninini Point Lighthouse, elevated at 86 feet, exists not merely as a navigational aid but also as a lookout, proffering expansive vistas of the central coastline and, seemingly in contrast, the mechanized motion of airplanes.
In a blend of ecological and cultural resonance, the Menehune Fish Pond, reputedly constructed a millennium ago by the mythical Menehune people, is an emblem of ancient Hawaiian aquaculture. Encompassed by a 900-foot-long and five-foot-high swathe of lava rock and located proximate to the Huiia River and National Wildlife Refuge, the pond subtly narrates a tale of ancient practices amidst the contemporary.
Moreover, the natural grandeur of central Kauai is, in part, articulated by the Wailua Falls which cascade from a height of 173 feet into the southern extremity of the Wailua River. The juxtaposition of such natural splendors against the modernity of Lihue provides an intriguing, albeit silent discourse on the concurrence of nature and development.
Lihue, while patently engaging in a dialogue with its historical roots and the enveloping natural environments, propels itself as a venue that both tourists and locals traverse with frequency. The central shore delineates itself not only through outdoor explorations but also via its engagement with history, visible in the two sugar plantation sites, a museum, and additionally, through its varied culinary and shopping offerings. The town, in essence, becomes a subtle weave of the historical, natural, and contemporary threads of Kauai.
Wai Koa Loop Trail
Kaua‘i Island Tour – South Shore
The South Shore of Kauai, defined by the melding of Koloa’s historical resonance and Poipu’s refined resort aura, presents a geography where heritage and leisure coalesce. The region, acknowledged for its roots in sugar plantation and now contemporary offerings like luxury accommodations, island-esque shopping experiences, golf courses, and an array of culinary venues, lays out a tableau for various forms of exploration and discovery.
Enveloping visitors with an arboreal embrace, the renowned tree tunnel road or Maluhia Road is the entrée to the South Shore, presenting a corridor of approximately 500 eucalyptus trees over a span of about 3 miles. This natural conduit leads to old Koloa town, a locale which bears the marks of the island’s intricate sugarcane history. The sugar mill, erected in 1835 and situated in downtown Koloa, stands as a relic of a past era, amid a contemporary setting of shops, galleries, and restaurants, and acts as a tacit reminder of the socio-economic transformation of the region.
The journey into Poipu unravels a spectrum of experiences defined by continuous sunshine, varying accommodations ranging from modest to luxurious, and an assortment of commercial establishments. The Poipu traffic circle, a pivotal point, navigates towards locales such as Prince Kuhio Park and further to the Spouting Horn Beach Park. The latter, known for its blowhole phenomenon, witnesses ocean spray erupting up to elevations of 50 feet, especially during high tide, generated by the subterranean rush of water beneath an eroded lava shelf.
Within the lush and verdant tapestry of Kauai, two National Tropical Botanical Gardens, spread across 352 acres, safeguard a rich and diverse assembly of flora. Additionally, Poipu Beach Park, nestled in the oceanfront village, serves as a venue where the tranquility of the beach meets the vibrant undersea world of marine life, including green sea turtles, monk seals, and during certain seasonal transitions, humpback whales.
Furthermore, Shipwrecks Beach, initiating the trajectory of the Māhāʻulepū Heritage Trail, and Māhāʻulepū Beach, each with their distinctive physical and atmospheric characters, provide varied options for coastal perambulation, sunset viewing, and exploratory hikes, albeit with an implicit reminder of nature’s potency through the strong currents and sharp coral of the latter.
The demarcation of this region is signposted by the town of Kalaheo, proffering its own assortment of dining and shopping opportunities. Thus, the South Shore, through its amalgam of historical, natural, and contemporary landmarks, lays forth a spectrum wherein the legacies of the past are intertwined with the offerings of the present in a locale illuminated by the consistent glow of the Hawaiian sun.
Wai Koa Loop Trail
Kaua‘i Island Tour – West Shore
The West Side of Kauai, acknowledged for its languid pacing, intertwines with a vivid and somewhat arid backdrop marked by rich, red soils, distinguishing it as a unique ecological niche within the island’s diverse landscapes. Here, worlds both ancient and contemporary intermingle, witnessed in the synergy of a globally recognized attraction and a flourishing arts scene where tendrils of cultural traditions subtly linger.
As one traverses towards the West Side, a vast expanse of coffee agriculture unravels across 3,100 acres, positioning itself as the largest productive farm of its kind in Hawaii and across the United States. This precedes the small town of Lawai, where Port Allen, a prominent embarkation point for nautical excursions along the striking Na Pali coastline, resides.
Hanapepe, despite its compact size, has garnered the moniker of Kauai’s largest little town, boasting an architectural elegance visible within its shops and storefronts. Anointed as the island’s art capital, it is a vibrant nexus of history and creativity, hosting a concentration of art galleries that surpasses any other locale within Kauai.
Adjacent to Hanapepe, Salt Pond Beach Park stands as a cultural pillar, christened after its traditional Hawaiian salt-collecting practices and proximity to the island’s only natural salt ponds. Its crescent-shaped cove, offering a sanctuary for both familial swimming and snorkeling, as well as surf and windsurfing activities, embeds itself in the locality.
Further along, Port Allen, also noted as the Russian Fort and erected in 1817, provides a historical point of interest, permitting self-guided tours for those inclined towards historical exploration.
Waimea, a town painted with hues of red and established upon a floodplain, is historically salient as Captain Cook’s initial point of contact with the Hawaiian Islands in 1778. At its doorstep lies Waimea Canyon, a geological panorama that delineates deep gorges, verdant valleys, and fluid streams amid layers of lava rock, earning it the epithet of the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. Spanning 14 miles in length, one mile in width, and plunging over 3,600 feet deep, it encompasses both the Waimea Canyon State Park and Kokee State Park.
As one ascends the sinuous road of the canyon, an ecological transition manifests through the emergence of sugi pine trees, majestic koa forests, and indigenous bird species, such as the vibrant red Apapane, amidst a backdrop of cooling breezes. Kokee State Park spans 4,345 acres, offering 19 hiking trails set between elevations of 3,200 and 4,200 feet, alongside various overlooks, including the visually arresting Kalalau Lookout.
Kekaha Beach Park, the last lifeguarded beach on the western shore, unfolds views of the distant Niihau island and signifies the onset of a renowned 17-mile stretch of golden sand leading to Polihale. Accessed via a five-mile-long dirt road formerly associated with sugarcane transport, Polihale State Park, the lengthiest beach within Hawaii, unveils views of the monumental Na Pali coastline and sunsets, along with towering sand dunes. However, it also issues a cautionary note with its potent currents and lack of lifeguard surveillance, rendering it hazardous for swimming and related activities, compounded by the often scorching heat and limited shoreline shade.
In sum, the West Side of Kauai surfaces as a multi-faceted jewel, threading together historical, artistic, and natural vistas into a tapestry of discernible splendor, yet untouched by overt modernization.
Wai Koa Loop Trail
Kaua‘i Island Tour – East Shore
Kaua’i’s eastern shore, commonly referred to as the Coconut Coast, melds historical richness and natural allure, illustrating a tapestry that interweaves the island’s royal past with its contemporary vibrancy. Noteworthy for its swaying coconut palms, the region facilitates both the indigenous and touristic populations, pivoting itself as a logical base for explorative ventures towards both the west and north shores of the island due to its central location.
Historically, the Royal Coconut Coast garnered its reputation as a reserved territory for the Hawaiian Kingdom’s elite and royal figures. The Nounou Mountain Range, often referred to as the Sleeping Giant due to its mythical backdrop, towers in the distance, offering a panorama that whispers tales of ancient Hawaiian legends.
Lydgate State Park is recognized for its family-friendly beach environment, safeguarding recreational endeavors with its protected swimming lagoons and vigilant lifeguards. Transitioning to Wailuā, a distinguished Eastside village, it morphs from a former religious and governmental focal point into an enclave that heralds cultural landmarks and an array of outdoor activities, all against a backdrop of notable waterfalls and scenic overlooks.
A geographical and hydrological marvel, the Wailua River, stretching 20 miles, emanates from Mount Waialeale, distinguished as one of the planet’s wettest locales, with annual rainfall averages hovering around 450 inches. Wailua River, uniquely navigable in Hawaii, offers a passage to the Fern Grotto. This green sanctuary showcases a geological spectacle, wherein a canopy of ferns cascades over volcanic rock, and concurrently houses the Wailua Complex of Heiaus, a congregation of sacred sites embedded in Hawaii’s prehistoric narrative.
Positioned uphill, Opaekaa Falls unfurls a natural spectacle with its 151-foot height and 40-foot width, establishing itself as one of the island’s most accessible and adored waterfalls. Transitioning into the human-made world, Historic Old Kapaa town emerges as a nucleus of activity, with over 100 locally owned businesses punctuating its streets, offering a dynamic of shops, cafes, and eateries, alongside a cultural immersion every first Saturday of the month—a synthesis of local crafters, musicians, and vendors converging to enliven the historical core.
Kapaa’s notoriety is also bolstered by its hosting of the lauded Coconut Festival each October at Kapaa Beach Park and the Kauai Products Fair in northern Kapaa, which endeavors to spotlight local artisans and craftsmen, offering visitors a tangible memento of their Kauai experience through a myriad of unique handmade products.
Adjacent to the town center, Kealia Beach and its accompanying paved trail, Ke Ala Hele Makalae not only proffers striking views of the eastern coastline but integrates seamlessly with the town area, providing both aesthetic and functional value with its multi-use pathway that permeates through the town center.
Venturing northbound, Anahola village surfaces, identified as a designated Hawaiian homeland area and home to a substantive native population. The silhouette of Kalalea Mountain punctuates the skyline with its pointed peak, colloquially identified with King Kong’s profile, presenting another geographic landmark that subtly nudges towards pop culture.
In this manner, the eastern shore of Kaua’i interweaves historical reverence, natural splendors, and contemporary vibrancy, crafting a locale where antiquity and the present intermingle amidst the tranquility of the Coconut Coast.
Wai Koa Loop Trail
Kaua‘i Island Tour – North Shore
Embarking upon the North Shore of Kaua’i, one is greeted with an assemblage of natural elements, amalgamating beaches, mountains, and waterfalls into a cohesive panorama renowned on a global stage.
At the northern apex of the Hawaiian Islands, the Kilauea Lighthouse stands as a beacon atop the scenic coastline, concurrently housing the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, which offers over 200 acres of rehabilitated habitat to indigenous plants and migratory birds. This refuge, curated for preservation and educational outreach, intertwines with the narrative of the Kilauea town, as it is studded with structures reflective of its historical journey.
Just shy of the Princeville town, Anini Beach proffers a blend of tranquility and utility, known amongst locals and travelers alike for its calm waters and comprehensive facilities. Onward to Princeville, it curates an amalgamation of luxury and verdant nature, blending affluent resorts and manicured neighborhoods with the lushness of cascading waterfalls, mountains, and taro fields, providing an interface where human development and nature converse.
Segueing to the Hanalei Valley Lookout, observers are graced with an expansive view of the richly vegetated Hanalei, where taro fields, pivotal to the island’s agricultural and cultural heritage, reside. The Hanalei village maintains a quaint disposition, where local businesses dot the town against the extensive backdrop of Hanalei Bay. The bay, foundational to the town’s identity and functionality, presents a two-mile stretch of sand, edged with verdant mountains and opening arms to the Hanalei Pier.
The Hanalei River, gently caressing the terrain from Mount Waialeale, negotiates its path through the locale, while the White Olilohe’e Church stands as a cultural and historical landmark, echoing traditional services and Hawaiian hymns within its walls each Sunday.
Traveling further north, the road yields to a path that is delineated by six bridges, folding through the communities of Wainiha and Ha’ena, and navigating through a lush, untamed jungle, reflecting the unbridled nature of Hawaii’s northern territories. Ha’ena Beach Park, alongside its neighbor Tunnels, furnishes a canvas for various activities such as beachcombing, shelling, swimming, and snorkeling, particularly during the summer months.
The North Shore further opens the realm of subterranean exploration at Maniniholo Dry Cave, before guiding travelers towards the Majuli Valley and stream, where the footprints of the original Native Hawaiians are imprinted upon the land. Adjacently, Ke’e Beach denotes both the terminal point of the North Shore’s road and the inception of the formidable Na Pali coastline, also acting as a gateway to the Kalalau Trail.
The Napali Coast, renowned for elevations reaching 4,000 feet above sea level, extends from Ke’e Beach in the north to Polihale in the west, offering a spectacle of unmatched natural beauty, accessible through various touristic modalities, including boat and helicopter tours.
Kaua’i’s North Shore, interweaving historical remnants, geological wonders, and culturally steeped locales, provides a nuanced exploration, where the primal beauty of nature intersects with the enduring touch of Hawaiian heritage and contemporary presence.
Wai Koa Loop Trail
Kaua‘i Island Tour – Overview
Kaua’i, a geographical gem in the Hawaiian archipelago, carries the distinction of being the oldest and northernmost island in the chain. Noted for its copious white sand beaches, which stretch over 50 miles, and holding the state’s only navigable rivers, the island unfolds a tapestry of lush mountains, expansive green valleys, and misty rainforests, interwoven with arid terrains.
Navigating from the historic West Side to the North Shore, a video tour hosted by Eden Hazelip endeavors to escort viewers through the multifaceted landscape, capturing glimpses of various towns, beaches, and cultural landmarks. Kaua’i, often dubbed the Garden Island, appears to encapsulate a sort of dichotomous beauty, where the arid desert lands coexist amid sweeping valleys and crystalline waters.
One may observe, particularly in the transitional spaces between its varied environments, a silent testimony to the island’s age and the resultant, gradually sculpted terrains. It’s a place where cascading waterfalls delineate the rugged terrain and daily rainbows arch across the expansive skies, further amplifying the picturesque quality of the landscape.
Traditional island values permeate the local communities, subtly narrating a tale of the land and its historical tapestry, infused with cultural and ecological integrity. Visitors frequently seek to immerse themselves in these tranquil landscapes, perhaps finding a serene juxtaposition against the vibrant, bustling nodes of commercial and social activity found within the island’s towns.
Kaua’i’s inherent charm might be said to emerge not merely from its scenic vistas but from a palpable melding of natural and cultural harmonies. A foray through its beaches, valleys, and towns is, in essence, a passage through time, where nature and tradition have seamlessly coalesced, giving rise to a locale where paradisal aesthetics are gracefully tethered to a rich, undulating historical and cultural underpinning.
Wai Koa Loop Trail