Nestled in Hawai’i, a once-abandoned golf course has evolved over the past three years into a 16.5-acre expanse known as The Farm at Hōkūala, flourishing under the cultivation of crops that carry profound cultural and practical significance. The transformation, as recounted by Farmer Cody to Lyndsey Haraguchi-Nakayama in a segment of “Down to Earth Kauai TV,” was initiated in 2018. “It used to be a golf course about 10 years ago, and since then, it was conservation land,” he explained, describing the space as previously “wild, full of weeds, full of feral pigs, and chickens.” His vision: to “revitalize the landscape into a food forest.”
The nascent farm, now a vibrant food forest, is notable for its meticulous nurturing of 12 species of “canoe plants,” those species brought over by ancient Polynesians. Farmer Cody emphasized the importance of one such plant, the coconut, as a “tree of life.” He highlighted, “Hawaiians allowed them to make hats, the papale. You can make fibers with it, different kinds of clothing.” The rationale behind the meticulous choice of plants is interwoven with a fervent dedication to preserve and perpetuate traditional Hawaiian practices and legacies through agriculture.
Engaging not just in cultivation but also in the conservation of indigenous crops, The Farm at Hōkūala seeks to perpetuate a living history and has entwined itself with the local community. About the canoe crops, Farmer Cody elaborated, “We grow all the canoe crops, from the olonā to the mai‘a, and we also conserve them to maintain their legacy here.” The farm’s intertwining with the culinary tapestry of the region is palpable; it sends approximately “40 different ingredients, fresh crops, to the kitchen at Hualani’s Kitchen at Timbers Resorts,” according to Farmer Cody.
Moreover, the cultivated crops venture beyond mere sustenance, weaving their way into various aspects of daily and cultural life, providing materials for clothing and other practical uses. Particularly, the farm boasts an impressive variety of avocados — over a dozen of the 200 types found in Hawai’i — each bringing a unique taste and texture to the table. The goal is for guests to “try the different tastes,” exploring a multitude of flavors that range from buttery to starchy, Cody said.
This agricultural endeavor does more than simply serve the immediate community and visitors. An integral part of its mission entails fostering a sustainable, local food network, which is crucial in a state where, as Farmer Cody noted, “90 percent of food in Hawaii is imported.” His stated goal as a farmer is “to decrease that by one, two, three percent,” a task he believes is achievable, in part, by “educating our children, our keiki, on how to grow food on this beautiful island because it tastes better, it’s even more nutritious for you too if you grow it yourself.”
One remarkable aspect of the farm’s operations is the rapid journey from harvest to table at Hualani’s Kitchen. Farmer Cody detailed this swift transition, stating that after a dishwashing process, they “go out with our wagons and our kids, and we harvest the following morning for him [the chef].” Within mere hours, the freshly-harvested produce is served, embodying the essence of freshness and local consumption.
Furthermore, The Farm at Hōkūala also assumes a philanthropic role in its operations. “Over 10 percent of all the produce growing at the farm goes to schools, it goes to the food bank, it goes to many non-profits, the 4-H clubs,” Cody shared. By involving itself actively in community outreach and seeking to educate the younger generation on the vitality of local farming, the farm sows seeds for a future where the island might be less dependent on imported food, thereby becoming more self-sustaining and environmentally responsible. This initiative provides not merely physical nourishment but also nurtures a sense of connectedness and continuity among the islanders, forging a path towards a future that honors the rich, agrarian history of Hawai’i.
Thus, The Farm at Hōkūala extends beyond an agricultural endeavor, intertwining historical preservation, community service, and environmental sustainability within its operational philosophy, thereby embedding itself as a vital entity within the intricate socio-cultural and economic fabric of Hawai’i.